A few months ago I discovered a little delicatessen on Nahalat Binyamin, near Ha’Aliya Street, that sells the best of everything: feta cheese and kalamata olives from Greece; tinned plum tomatoes from Sicily; Bonne Maman jam from France; preserved capers from Liguria; maple syrup from Canada; Dutch Gouda cheese; Norwegian red caviar paste in a tube; deep yellow Danish butter cut from a huge lump and sold by weight; Turkish halva; and, well, you get the idea. The place reminds me of the shop owned by the Greek grandfather in A Touch of Spice.
I don’t know what this shop is called. There is no sign on the door, and the three brothers who are the proprietors write the bill on scraps of white paper, adding up the prices in their head instead of using a calculator.
The brothers are soft-spoken and cultured, and courteous without being effusive. When one of them disapproves of my choice, a little crease appears above the bridge of his nose. When they approve, they smile gently.
One day I heard them carrying on a conversation in Ladino.
“Are you from Turkey?” I asked.
“Not really,” answered one of the brothers. “We are Castillian. That is, we lived in Spain for about 800 years. Then we were in Italy – actually, Livorno – for about 400 years. We were only in Turkey for 200 years. Then, about 80 years ago, we moved to the Land of Israel.”
I gaped at him for a moment, unsure of whether he was joking or not. Seeing he was serious, I said, “You are like a living history of Sephardic Jewry. I’d love to take your photo and write about you. Would that be okay?”
“Write about us? Why? Our story is very ordinary.”
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